Scope and Contents

The papers here show the development of the book and negotiations between various interested parties. This includes correspondence about publishing the book and possible translations, corrections,draft contracts, and royalty statements.

Scope and Contents The correspondence here is between the authors and other climbers involved in the ascent, including the widow of John Harlin, Marilyn. It consists of:Letters of Dougal Haston to Peter Gillman, [?1966];Copies of letters of Peter Gillman to Dougal Haston, including draft captions for book, [?1966];Letters of Chris Bonington to Peter Gillman, 1966;Correspondence between Peter Gillman and Marilyn Harlin, John’s wife, during the writing of the...

Scope and Contents

Photographs taken by Peter Gillman of Dougal Haston and John Harlin on ther Eiger, with some taken of Haston at Cerro Torre. The digital files were created between 2009 and 2018.

Scope and Contents All the correspondence here relates to the publication of 'Eiger Direct'. It includes:Letter of Graham Tiso to Peter Gillman about equipment, 1966;Letter from Jorg Lehne to Peter Gillman, 1966;Letters of David H Swanson to Peter Gillman regarding a possible film of Eiger assent, 1966;Letter of Joan Matthews to Dougal Haston, 1966;Letter of Karl Golikow, member of the German team, to Peter Gillman, 1966;Letter of Mike...

Scope and Contents The manuscript here for the work 'Eiger Direct', which was published in 1966. This manuscript contains the sections of the book written by Peter Gillman. The manuscript contains many additions and deletions throughout.There are manuscript drafts for chapters 1-12, although some chapters appear to be incomplete.There are also some typescript drafts of the Authors' Foreword and the the Glossary of Climbing Terms. With the manuscript, there are also a number...

Scope and Contents

There are here the manuscripts for 'Eiger Direct' of both Dougal Haston and Peter Gillman. There is also a typescript of the Gillman section.

Scope and Contents The records in this file relate to the time the climbers were trying to make the main ascent of the north face of the Eiger. They consist of:Note to Peter Gillman informing him to call Kleine Scheidegg and that 'opposition has started';Certificate for Chris Bonington after he received medical treatment;Three invoices from the mountaineering supplier Eiselin Sport for various supplies used by the climbing team, including the rope that later broke resulting...

Scope and Contents

The audio tapes provide detailed insight into the efforts and trials of the team of climbers during their attempt to climb the north face of the Eiger. The team discuss a range of topics, especially the weather, health of the team members, equipment and immediate plans for how to continue to the ascent.

Scope and Contents

The records here all relate to the climbing of the Eiger by a British-American team in March 1966.

Theys here include route plans, notes, receipts and photographs, as well as tapes recording communication between the climbers on the mountain face and their support team at Kleine Scheidegg.

Scope and Contents The records here all relate to the climb made in 1966 of the north face of the Eiger. The purpose of the climb had been to establish an alpine style, direct route up the north face of the mountain. A team of British and American climbers (Chris Bonington, Mick Burke, Peter Gillman, John Harlin, Dougal Haston, Layton Kor and Don Whillans) attempted the climb in March 1966. The climb was troubled by bad weather and tragedy when a rope broke, sending Harlin to his death.There was...

Scope and Contents

Photographs taken by Peter Gillman of Dougal Haston.

Digital copies of photographs of Dougal Haston and John Harlin on the Eiger, March 1966.

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Two photographs of Dougal Haston taken by Peter Gillman.

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The records here all relate to press coverage of the climb. They consist of:

Letters of John Anstey to John Harlin and Peter Gillman, 1966;

Notes for telephone calls with the Telegraph during the climb;

Telex regarding an interview with ITN;

Notes for various interviews during the climb.

Scope and Contents

Peter Gillman and Dougal Haston wrote a book about the ascent of the north face of the Eiger, with the photographs of Chris Bonington. This was entitled 'Eiger Direct' and was publsihed by Collins in 1966. The records in this series all relate to that publication.

Scope and Contents

The conversations recorded here provide detailed insight into the climb and the various problems the team encountered. The main subject of conversations include the weather, the movements of the German climbing team, the plans and options for the ascent, media coverage and the health of the team members.

Scope and Contents

The conversations recorded here provide detailed insight into the climb and the various problems the team encountered. The main subject of conversations include the weather, the movements of the German climbing team, the plans and options for the ascent, media coverage and the health of the team members. There is also some discussion following the death of John Harlin regarding whether the climb should continue.

Scope and Contents

The two tapes here record the radio communications between the team during the ascent on the Eiger.

Scope and Contents

The typescript contains all 12 chapters of 'Eiger Direct'. It has been corrected and annotated throughout.

With the typescipt is a photograph of the mountain, with an overlay showing the route taken by the team and key points of the climb.