Scope and Contents The correspondence here is between the authors and other climbers involved in the ascent, including the widow of John Harlin, Marilyn. It consists of:Letters of Dougal Haston to Peter Gillman, [?1966];Copies of letters of Peter Gillman to Dougal Haston, including draft captions for book, [?1966];Letters of Chris Bonington to Peter Gillman, 1966;Correspondence between Peter Gillman and Marilyn Harlin, John’s wife, during the writing of the...

Scope and Contents

Photographs taken by Peter Gillman of Dougal Haston and John Harlin on ther Eiger, with some taken of Haston at Cerro Torre. The digital files were created between 2009 and 2018.

Scope and Contents All the correspondence here relates to the publication of 'Eiger Direct'. It includes:Letter of Graham Tiso to Peter Gillman about equipment, 1966;Letter from Jorg Lehne to Peter Gillman, 1966;Letters of David H Swanson to Peter Gillman regarding a possible film of Eiger assent, 1966;Letter of Joan Matthews to Dougal Haston, 1966;Letter of Karl Golikow, member of the German team, to Peter Gillman, 1966;Letter of Mike...

Scope and Contents

In the published version of 'Eiger Direct', the main narrative is interspersed with sections written by Dougal Haston. The manuscripts here relate to those sections. They are corrected and annotated throughout.

There are also some manuscript notes included in the hand of Haston.

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There are here the manuscripts for 'Eiger Direct' of both Dougal Haston and Peter Gillman. There is also a typescript of the Gillman section.

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The audio tapes provide detailed insight into the efforts and trials of the team of climbers during their attempt to climb the north face of the Eiger. The team discuss a range of topics, especially the weather, health of the team members, equipment and immediate plans for how to continue to the ascent.

Scope and Contents

The records here all relate to the climbing of the Eiger by a British-American team in March 1966.

Theys here include route plans, notes, receipts and photographs, as well as tapes recording communication between the climbers on the mountain face and their support team at Kleine Scheidegg.

Scope and Contents The records here all relate to the climb made in 1966 of the north face of the Eiger. The purpose of the climb had been to establish an alpine style, direct route up the north face of the mountain. A team of British and American climbers (Chris Bonington, Mick Burke, Peter Gillman, John Harlin, Dougal Haston, Layton Kor and Don Whillans) attempted the climb in March 1966. The climb was troubled by bad weather and tragedy when a rope broke, sending Harlin to his death.There was...

Scope and Contents

Photographs taken by Peter Gillman of Dougal Haston.

Digital copies of photographs of Dougal Haston and John Harlin on the Eiger, March 1966.

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Two photographs of Dougal Haston taken by Peter Gillman.

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Peter Gillman and Dougal Haston wrote a book about the ascent of the north face of the Eiger, with the photographs of Chris Bonington. This was entitled 'Eiger Direct' and was publsihed by Collins in 1966. The records in this series all relate to that publication.

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The conversations recorded here provide detailed insight into the climb and the various problems the team encountered. The main subject of conversations include the weather, the movements of the German climbing team, the plans and options for the ascent, media coverage and the health of the team members.

Scope and Contents

The conversations recorded here provide detailed insight into the climb and the various problems the team encountered. The main subject of conversations include the weather, the movements of the German climbing team, the plans and options for the ascent, media coverage and the health of the team members. There is also some discussion following the death of John Harlin regarding whether the climb should continue.

Scope and Contents

There are here two descriptions of the route taken by the British-American team.

The first is a typed route description, annotated by Dougal Haston.

The second is a manuscript route description of the First Band section written by Layton Kor.

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The two tapes here record the radio communications between the team during the ascent on the Eiger.

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The typescript contains all 12 chapters of 'Eiger Direct'. It has been corrected and annotated throughout.

With the typescipt is a photograph of the mountain, with an overlay showing the route taken by the team and key points of the climb.